fermented lichen dyes

[WWFSM]

Anyone tried fermenting lichen for dyeing wool or cotton? I'm just beginning my research into the topic, so if anyone has some experience or can recommend a good source, please let me know.

I know, I know, it's not a food fermentation, but maybe it's okay to ask here?

[Christopher Weeks]

If you compile some knowledge on this, I'd love it if you gave an overview or some pointers to good reading.

[WWFSM]

I can post my findings here as I come upon them.

So far, I have learned that they need to be fermented in a very alkaline solution, these days ammonia and rain water, but in the past it was quick lye or fermented urine. I'm going with the ammonia method for my first go.

It seems to be that you want to separate the lichens by type as much as possible. Also, lore goes that rock lichen produces more purples and reds than tree lichen - but that remains to be seen.

Going to get a book about it from the library today, so I'll learn more then.

[WWFSM]

Okay, so the book is Lichen Dyes The New Source Book by Karen Diadick Casselman. It's a bit like a meta research (it collects and explains different sources of information as well as offering the authors own opinions and experiences). I like it.

It has a huge bibliography at the end and her approach to natural dyeing is a lot like mine. The book demonstrates "conservation by setting an example; to show that ethical dye formulas are possible; to offer advice on ways to utilize 'found' (detached) lichens; and to include new ways to improve fastness."(p1). Basically, don't cause damage to the ecosystem by collecting from tree or rock, but rather by collecting blow downs. Recipes that use less lichen per fibre to be dyed that previously, but gets a stronger colour. And the fastness refers to the colour not washing out or fading in the sun.

She has the boiling method like is used to make harris tweed, but also talks a lot about the ammonia method which gives reds and purples most of the time.

I don't know yet if this ammonia method is fermenting or not, I've only glanced at it. Basically a solution of ammonia and rain water (between 1:1 and 1:3) which the lichen is put in. The mixture is aerated several times a day (aka, stirred vigorously), for about 16 weeks depending on the lichen used. I don't know if this is just a chemical reaction or an actual ferment, but word on the grapevine is that it stinks to high heaven!

I'll let you know more as I learn it.

[WWFSM]

Most of the sources I've been reading do consider it fermentation. Also the ideal temperature for the ferment is between 10 and 25 degrees C. Too hot or too cold will prevent colour.

Adding ammonia to a failed vat is suppose to do no good whatsoever. However, increasing oxidation may save it.

Apparently there is a long but convoluted history of dyeing with lichen. Most of the methods for working with it were kept secret, so it's hard to discover exactly what methods were used. But there are references to it back in classic times, and analysis of Norse and other medieval clothing shows that some of it was dyed using this fermented lichen method.

[WWFSM]

I started my first lichen vats. I'm using the low ammonia fermentation method. I like this because it uses less ammonia and less lichen than most other methods, but gives just as good a colour.

All my lichens I'm using for this are tree lichens that grow on bark or branches and have blown down in storms. Apparently rock lichen makes a brighter colour, but it's less environmentally friendly to gather this.

Step one, sort the lichens
Step two, tear them up to dime size bits (need about a cup - should be less than 1/4 full for the jar you are using)
step three barely cover with ammonia in a sealable jar, shake well. leave for three days
add 3 parts water (rain is best) for every 1 part ammonia (by volume), stir vigorously 5 times a day for 5 weeks, then 3 times a day for 10 weeks. Keep between 10 and 20 degrees C (not the 25 I thought earlier. Colour should change from green to pink/purple/orange/red or something else over time.

When the 15 weeks are up, we will strain the liquid and then make a dye bath with it. Then I'll experiment with different mordants and see how it goes.